What should I do?

[the black fox]

Re: What should I do?

theres a possibility it will be o.k with a dedicated (and expensive) 300mm v1 lens andy ,but if your using a adaptor and standard nikon lenses then i'll stand by what i wrote above ,went through the whole rigmarole and it simply does'nt work in typical u.k shooting conditions .the i.q simply isn't there anymore than canons eos m series cameras ,nat wants a lightweight long reach rig for wildlife ,there is nothing made that will fit the bill and also personally knowing nat and his limitations i re-iterate theres nothing out there at this moment in time .

the options mentioned above i.e t.c's .,nikon V1 ,eos m ,are all good for normal photography but not if as nat does you want to push out the long range b.i.f options that nat is looking for

[AndyMulhearn]

Re: What should I do?

theres a possibility it will be o.k with a dedicated (and expensive) 300mm v1 lens andy ,but if your using a adaptor and standard nikon lenses then i'll stand by what i wrote above

I never suggested any of that Jeff. The current price from WEX for the 70-300 CX is £719 and the Nikon 1 V3 is £749. That's not an expensive setup to give someone decent range in a small and light kit

,went through the whole rigmarole and it simply does'nt work in typical u.k shooting conditions .the i.q simply isn't there anymore than canons eos m series cameras ,nat wants a lightweight long reach rig for wildlife ,there is nothing made that will fit the bill and also personally knowing nat and his limitations i re-iterate theres nothing out there at this moment in time .

I think you're wrong there, the V1 is a definite candidate for what Nat's asked for. The 70-300 has VR which means you can keep the shutter speed down and minimise the ISO and it's light and has long reach.

the options mentioned above i.e t.c's .,nikon V1 ,eos m ,are all good for normal photography but not if as nat does you want to push out the long range b.i.f options that nat is looking for

Nat never mentioned BIF, simply wildlife. And as people have used them on safari...

[Les McLean]

Re: What should I do?

Nat, although I'm a bit late into the thread, if you are going to invest in a 7D2( and it's an excellent choice), then to get the best out of it , it needs good glass, not just for IQ, but also a/f speed and tracking. So out of your options, the 300mm F4 is the lens of choice (IMO) with or without a TC. A friend of mine has this combination, and I'm impressed with the wildlife/sport images he produces. I agree with others regarding IS, the shutter speeds used generally for wildlife/sport negate the need for IS most of the time.

[Robert Scott]

Re: What should I do?

To be honest Andy even though Kenko states it will work on certain EF-S lenses and the 70-300 L I'm not totally convinced as I've yet to see any real life examples or people confirming this to be the case online, and you'd have thought they'd be shouting from the rooftops at the effectiveness of this T.C as it would be a first for the above lenses Gord

Yes, the new Kenko Teleplus HD converters do work with EF and EF-S lenses. I have both the 1.4x and 2.0x versions on my desk as I type. They have only just arrived, so I have not yet tested them in the field. However, I have fitted them to full-frame (EOS 5D Mark III) and an APS-C (EOS 650D) cameras with both an EF and an EF-S lens. Interestingly, the EF-S lens - the 60mm f2.8 Macro - seems to give an image with no vignetting on the EOS 5D Mark III. The converter must be increasing the image circle.

I can't comment on focusing, exposure or resolution at the moment as I need to run a series of tests.

[Nathaniel]

Re: What should I do?

Looks very interesting and promising. Just to remind members that I am not young filly but have recently touched 4 score years. I know that there are members who have jacked up photography due to age, eye sight and other problems. However I have managed to keep going by perhaps downsing my equipment due to weight etc as my interest in photography goes as far back as the 1950's. Also by doing my best to keep fit with regular gym sessions, annual eye sight tests etc etc.So I am not going to give up in a hurry. I agree with Les that good glass is very important and I am sure I have got a good set of glass at the moment- even the two APS-C lenses I have got are very good although not "L" glass. Hence for my wildlife/bird photography I will look at all my options very carefully.

[EightBitTony]

Re: What should I do?

The 7DII is pretty heavy don't forget; it's twice as heavy as the 100D (900g vs 400g).

[Nathaniel]

Re: What should I do?

Tony, I realise that but it is the overall weight I am looking at i.e camera plus lens kit to weigh around 1250 grms. It is actually a heavier lens + 100D or a lighter lens + 7D mk2.

[planetc]

Re: What should I do?

Maybe you could forget cameras and take up painting Nat. Paint brushes are nice and light and cloning out the dodgy bits is easier
;-)

[Nathaniel]

Re: What should I do?

I am managing OK so far!

[paul linton]

Re: What should I do?

P.S, I might add that I have tried to crop images taken with my 6D but the IQ tends to deteriorate and so I have stopped doing this.

The Image was probably not pin sharp to start with or very very small in the frame as i can crop till my hearts content with the 5D and still keep the detail, so as long as it's sharp you could go as much as 50% crop without much noticeable loss. (and i would imagine the 6D can resolve more cleaner detail than the 5D with the newer sensor?)

Paul

[Tigger]

Re: What should I do?

The Image was probably not pin sharp to start with or very very small in the frame as i can crop till my hearts content with the 5D and still keep the detail, so as long as it's sharp you could go as much as 50% crop without much noticeable loss. (and i would imagine the 6D can resolve more cleaner detail than the 5D with the newer sensor?)

Paul

agree - I will crop to 50% without a second thought and have gone to 75% and still had an image I would be happy to show and post here

[Nathaniel]

Re: What should I do?

Comments taken on board, Paul and Ian. It could well be an eyesight problem for me re pin sharp images but most of the ones I have had problems in the past were taken at f8 to f11 i.e birds especially, which should give me reasonably sharp pictures.

[planetc]

Re: What should I do?

most of the ones I have had problems in the past were taken at f8 to f11 i.e birds especially, which should give me reasonably sharp pictures.

Not if they were off focus or suffering camera shake beforehand, they'll only be sharp if they are on point.

[Nathaniel]

Re: What should I do?

I note you point Paul. However,I have got very steady hands and I always set my TV way above the focal length of the lens and so there is no chance of much camera shake. I also do not have any C&C on my posts here stating that the images are soft. I can only think of my eyesight but even here the auto focus would take care of this problem most of the time. I always shoot with the centre point in focus. Anyway, I prefer not to crop too much, if that can be avoided.

[antoeknee]

Re: What should I do?

If the focus is correct then cropping shouldn't be an issue. Of course getting a full frame image is preferable but isn't always possible due to distance or subject nervousness.

Just for example the images I posted about the Sigma 150-600

http://www.eos-magazine-forum.com/showthread.php?32175-Sigma-150-600-C

show a large crop and detail is retained.

Your 6D should be capable of this type of quality.