Lapland in December advice

[Jonathan Teatime]

... Some cameras have a noise setting for long exposures too, but not been there so cannot comment.

My understanding of the long exposure noise reduction setting is that it takes the camera approximately the same time as the exposure to process and save the image, a 20 minute exposure will take the camera a further 20 minute or so to process and save the image, so use with caution.

[Swanny48]

A head torch is a good idea even if only to see where you’re going. Turn it off while taking your shot and if there are other with you, don’t spoil their shots either. As I said earlier, familiarise yourself with your camera and lens and practice using them in darkness. It’s worth focussing on something very distant, so you can see where the focussing mark is, as it probably won’t be exactly on the infinity mark. Then you know where to set the focus ring in darkness. There is no need to bother with long exposure noise reduction.

John

[antoeknee]

My understanding of the long exposure noise reduction setting is that it takes the camera approximately the same time as the exposure to process and save the image, a 20 minute exposure will take the camera a further 20 minute or so to process and save the image, so use with caution.

IIRC this only works if shooting jpeg.

[antoeknee]

A head torch is a good idea even if only to see where you’re going. Turn it off while taking your shot and if there are other with you, don’t spoil their shots either. As I said earlier, familiarise yourself with your camera and lens and practice using them in darkness. It’s worth focussing on something very distant, so you can see where the focussing mark is, as it probably won’t be exactly on the infinity mark. Then you know where to set the focus ring in darkness. There is no need to bother with long exposure noise reduction.

John

If possible try and get red filter for a head torch as this will help preserve your night vision.

[TonyT]

I nearly forgot, and I rechecked, put it in a ziplock bag when coming indoors to prevent condensation forming, and leave the lens on. see link for more

http://shuttermuse.com/cold-weather-...rotect-camera/

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2919124

[Jonathan Teatime]

IIRC this only works if shooting jpeg.

According to the discussion here it does effect files at the RAW level;

My understanding is that it works by taking a dark-frame exposure of the same duration as the image exposure and then subtracting it at the RAW file level.

[antoeknee]

According to the discussion here it does effect files at the RAW level;

Seem to remember that its not applied unless you use Canon software. Also it may make matters worse at high ISO.

This site contains some info.
https://improvephotography.com/48889...reduction-use/
The manual method looks quite interesting.

[Jonathan Teatime]

Sorry but everything I can find on the subject indicates that the LENR occurs in camera and is applied to RAW files irrespective of the external processing software used. And yes it can have a negative effect on the resulting image, if it was something I was worried about I would definitely be doing my own dark frame and process accordingly in PS.

[Jonathan Teatime]

All of which does not detract from my initial comment to use the function with caution.

[lunarbo]

Hi Chris

I have just returned from a very special trip to Norway which included time in Tromso to see the NL. Still processing pics but will post some crackers soon

My thoughts FWIW are as follows.-
1. To see the NL you need clear skies and no city lights. Try to go on an organised trip as these guys know the terrain and the latest weather and will plan accordingly

2. Wrap up warm, you will be standing outside for up to 2 hrs. Get small head torch (Amazon £10) with red and white beam. Try to use red most of the time, to avoid annoying others and switch off when you’re shooting

3. Spare batteries and card in your pocket- just in case.

4. After being outside stay there and clean your lens, put cap on ,wrap your lovely camera up to keep it cold, put in your insulated camera bag so it stays cold as you drive on to your next spot. Condensation happens coming from cold to warm, so you want your camera to stay cold until the end of the evening. When back at hotel allow it to warm up slowly i.e. keep it in the bag overnight.

5. Your FF 5d 3 is great but the ideal lens would be f2.8 or less and wider than 24mm.You will want to use it wide open to keep the ISO down & lowest time possible to minimalise noise- so 2.8 will score over an f4 unless the lights are very bright.

6. I used a Samyang 14mm f2.8 which seems to have a lot of pundits but it was a bit scary to use at first until I practiced as it is totally manual.

7. Practice beforehand to find infinity ( plenty of advice on You Tube here) then tape this position with micropore so you’re not jiggling it around in the dark. Then switch to manual focus (IS off if you have it ) & you’re set to go.

8. Shoot RAW, manual at anything from ISO 800-4000. Keep this as low as possible and adjust time up from 8-15 secs., check your histogram to see that you are just touching the left hand side. I know they say the 500 rule means you can shoot for up to 30 secs but the lights can be whizzing around at speed so you want to keep the time down so that you haven’t got a big muzzy green blob. Looking at my shots the majority were shot at ISO 1600-2500 and time 8-15 secs.
Adjust time before ISO for noise reasons

9. Put on 2 sec delay then set your timer on your camera. Decent tripod required

10. Agree with others' comments about a foreground: i shot some shots directly upwards as it was really pretty but they miss being grounded

10. Don’t forget to LOOK at them, it’s not just about the photo!!

Enjoy. It's magical