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Lapland in December advice

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    #16
    Re: Lapland in December advice

    Originally posted by antoeknee View Post
    IIRC this only works if shooting jpeg.
    According to the discussion here it does effect files at the RAW level;

    My understanding is that it works by taking a dark-frame exposure of the same duration as the image exposure and then subtracting it at the RAW file level.
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      #17
      Re: Lapland in December advice

      Originally posted by Jonathan Teatime View Post
      According to the discussion here it does effect files at the RAW level;
      Seem to remember that its not applied unless you use Canon software. Also it may make matters worse at high ISO.

      This site contains some info.
      Long Exposure Noise Reduction: What It Is and How to Use It. As a night sky photographer, I spend much of my time pushing my camera sensor to its limits by

      The manual method looks quite interesting.
      Canon 5D3, 7D2, 60D, Canon 70-200L f2.8 IS II, Canon 300 f4L IS, Canon 16-35 f4 L, Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, Canon 1.4 MkIII extender, Sigma AF 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM, Sigma 150-600 Contemporary, Tamron SP AF 70-300 F/4-5.6 Di VC USD, Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS
      https://www.flickr.com/photos/16830751@N03/

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        #18
        Re: Lapland in December advice

        Sorry but everything I can find on the subject indicates that the LENR occurs in camera and is applied to RAW files irrespective of the external processing software used. And yes it can have a negative effect on the resulting image, if it was something I was worried about I would definitely be doing my own dark frame and process accordingly in PS.
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          #19
          Re: Lapland in December advice

          All of which does not detract from my initial comment to use the function with caution.
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            #20
            Re: Lapland in December advice

            Hi Chris

            I have just returned from a very special trip to Norway which included time in Tromso to see the NL. Still processing pics but will post some crackers soon

            My thoughts FWIW are as follows.-
            1. To see the NL you need clear skies and no city lights. Try to go on an organised trip as these guys know the terrain and the latest weather and will plan accordingly

            2. Wrap up warm, you will be standing outside for up to 2 hrs. Get small head torch (Amazon £10) with red and white beam. Try to use red most of the time, to avoid annoying others and switch off when you’re shooting

            3. Spare batteries and card in your pocket- just in case.

            4. After being outside stay there and clean your lens, put cap on ,wrap your lovely camera up to keep it cold, put in your insulated camera bag so it stays cold as you drive on to your next spot. Condensation happens coming from cold to warm, so you want your camera to stay cold until the end of the evening. When back at hotel allow it to warm up slowly i.e. keep it in the bag overnight.

            5. Your FF 5d 3 is great but the ideal lens would be f2.8 or less and wider than 24mm.You will want to use it wide open to keep the ISO down & lowest time possible to minimalise noise- so 2.8 will score over an f4 unless the lights are very bright.

            6. I used a Samyang 14mm f2.8 which seems to have a lot of pundits but it was a bit scary to use at first until I practiced as it is totally manual.

            7. Practice beforehand to find infinity ( plenty of advice on You Tube here) then tape this position with micropore so you’re not jiggling it around in the dark. Then switch to manual focus (IS off if you have it ) & you’re set to go.

            8. Shoot RAW, manual at anything from ISO 800-4000. Keep this as low as possible and adjust time up from 8-15 secs., check your histogram to see that you are just touching the left hand side. I know they say the 500 rule means you can shoot for up to 30 secs but the lights can be whizzing around at speed so you want to keep the time down so that you haven’t got a big muzzy green blob. Looking at my shots the majority were shot at ISO 1600-2500 and time 8-15 secs.
            Adjust time before ISO for noise reasons

            9. Put on 2 sec delay then set your timer on your camera. Decent tripod required

            10. Agree with others' comments about a foreground: i shot some shots directly upwards as it was really pretty but they miss being grounded

            10. Don’t forget to LOOK at them, it’s not just about the photo!!

            Enjoy. It's magical
            Canon EOS R5, R6 plus the usual suspects ......

            https://www.flickr.com/photos/bo_fo_to

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              #21
              Re: Lapland in December advice

              Originally posted by lunarbo View Post
              ...........Don’t forget to LOOK at them, it’s not just about the photo!!

              Enjoy. It's magical
              Barbara, you are so right! You have to fix them in your heart as well as in the camera memory.
              John Liddle

              Backwell, North Somerset - "Where the cider apples grow"

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                #22
                Re: Lapland in December advice

                Originally posted by lunarbo View Post
                Hi Chris

                I have just returned from a very special trip to Norway which included time in Tromso to see the NL. Still processing pics but will post some crackers soon

                Enjoy. It's magical
                "Well jel", as I believe the kids say.
                Chris
                80D - 10-18 IS STM - 15-85 IS USM - 55-250 IS STM - 50 f/1.8 STM - 100-400L IS II USM - 100 f/2.8L Macro - 1.4x III

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                  #23
                  Re: Lapland in December advice

                  Look forward to the pictures, my trips to Norway consisted of flying in, getting out, throwing snowballs at my mate, getting back in and flying home :)
                  The fun part was flying into Barderfoss in a VC10 you flew down snow covered valleys both in and out of the place.
                  Canon 1DX, 50D, EF500 F4.0 L, EF100-400 f/4.5-5.6L I , EF100-400 f/4.5-5.6L II, EF70-200 f/2.8L II, EF180 f3.5L Macro, EF 24-105 f/4L, EF17-40 f/4L, EF2.0X III, EF1.4X III, 430EX II, MR-14EX...

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