Beware! If you have never used a super-telephoto, there is a learning curve involved, not lease because of their size and weight. Also keep in mind that the cost of the lens doesn't stop the minute you walk out of the shop with it under your arm.
DOF: The narrow depth of focus at the smaller apertures is so slight that focus becomes super-critical. I have learned trough necessity to switch focus areas without thinking, as I find framing a shot after focusing to be just too inaccurate. This can be down to camera or subject movement.
Camera shake: You will need a very good tripod and either a beefy ball head or a wimberley/gimbal arrangement to overcome shake. None of this is small or lightweight – it can be described as portable at best. A good steady hand and light shutter finger are important too. Light permitting, you might also get your monopod out – unless you're built like Arnie you're not going to take many shots hand-held with this lens.
Logistics: You won't fit this into any old camera bag, and if you manage to squeeze it into your existing bag, you'll need another one to house all the kit it has just displaced. Some folk like to have a bag dedicated to their telephoto – one that is tall enough to carry the body and lens hood already in place so that they can whip it out and start shooting.
Insurance: Kerching $$$$
Multipliers: Another added expense is a pair of multipliers. Especially if you are interested in nature photography, these will get a lot of use. The 1.4x turns in some excellent results. Even the 2x (at f8-16) has given some very sharp pictures. Keeping steady is twice as hard with converters attached though. I once tried using lens and 2x converter on a concrete and steel bridge but the vibrations of passing traffic caused blurring.
With some of the negatives out of the way – this is an absolutely fantastic piece of engineering. It is razor sharp through most apertures and even decently sharp wide open at 2.8. If shooting nature is your thing, you will probably find yourself using the wider end of the aperture range. Isolating your subject from a beautiful soft background is one of the pleasures of using a lens like this. The speed at which it tracks movement is outstanding. Even with the 1.4x multiplier in place, it with track birds in flight and motorcycling on the track.
On the lens barrel: are 2 switches for IS – one for I/O and one for Mode1/Mode2. I do wonder if one switch with three positions wouldn't do better. The IS works well to a point, but cannot be expected to make up for bad camera handling. AF is a simple AF/M switch. The focus limiter has three settings (3m-inf/3m-10m/10m-inf) each of which is useful. There is a focus set button which records a focus distance which can be recalled instantly via a preset ring towards the front of the lens. A switch accompanies the focus set button with three options – OFF/Silent/Beep. Presetting focus works well where a subject is isolated against a distant background, like a bird on a twig. If the lens starts 'hunting' for focus, it can be recalled instantly. All buttons and switches are on the left and become intuitively easy to use with practice.
Weatherproofing: I have been drenched to the skin in an unexpected downpour and kept on shooting – no problem. Dust hasn't been a worry either.
Build Quality: Bulletproof – I'm sure it'll outlast me.
In summary, the 400mm f2.8 is a brilliant piece of kit but not for the lighthearted.
DOF: The narrow depth of focus at the smaller apertures is so slight that focus becomes super-critical. I have learned trough necessity to switch focus areas without thinking, as I find framing a shot after focusing to be just too inaccurate. This can be down to camera or subject movement.
Camera shake: You will need a very good tripod and either a beefy ball head or a wimberley/gimbal arrangement to overcome shake. None of this is small or lightweight – it can be described as portable at best. A good steady hand and light shutter finger are important too. Light permitting, you might also get your monopod out – unless you're built like Arnie you're not going to take many shots hand-held with this lens.
Logistics: You won't fit this into any old camera bag, and if you manage to squeeze it into your existing bag, you'll need another one to house all the kit it has just displaced. Some folk like to have a bag dedicated to their telephoto – one that is tall enough to carry the body and lens hood already in place so that they can whip it out and start shooting.
Insurance: Kerching $$$$
Multipliers: Another added expense is a pair of multipliers. Especially if you are interested in nature photography, these will get a lot of use. The 1.4x turns in some excellent results. Even the 2x (at f8-16) has given some very sharp pictures. Keeping steady is twice as hard with converters attached though. I once tried using lens and 2x converter on a concrete and steel bridge but the vibrations of passing traffic caused blurring.
With some of the negatives out of the way – this is an absolutely fantastic piece of engineering. It is razor sharp through most apertures and even decently sharp wide open at 2.8. If shooting nature is your thing, you will probably find yourself using the wider end of the aperture range. Isolating your subject from a beautiful soft background is one of the pleasures of using a lens like this. The speed at which it tracks movement is outstanding. Even with the 1.4x multiplier in place, it with track birds in flight and motorcycling on the track.
On the lens barrel: are 2 switches for IS – one for I/O and one for Mode1/Mode2. I do wonder if one switch with three positions wouldn't do better. The IS works well to a point, but cannot be expected to make up for bad camera handling. AF is a simple AF/M switch. The focus limiter has three settings (3m-inf/3m-10m/10m-inf) each of which is useful. There is a focus set button which records a focus distance which can be recalled instantly via a preset ring towards the front of the lens. A switch accompanies the focus set button with three options – OFF/Silent/Beep. Presetting focus works well where a subject is isolated against a distant background, like a bird on a twig. If the lens starts 'hunting' for focus, it can be recalled instantly. All buttons and switches are on the left and become intuitively easy to use with practice.
Weatherproofing: I have been drenched to the skin in an unexpected downpour and kept on shooting – no problem. Dust hasn't been a worry either.
Build Quality: Bulletproof – I'm sure it'll outlast me.
In summary, the 400mm f2.8 is a brilliant piece of kit but not for the lighthearted.
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