Looking goooooooood!....
PS
Are you shooting raw (CR2) or JPEG files? One advantage of raw is that you can mess about a lot more and recover far more apparently lost data - particularly from the shadows - than you can from JPEG.
One trick I use when shooting pictures with sky, particularly bright sky, is to set the camera to manual, point it at the sky and set the exposure to between +1 and +2 as displayed in the viewfinder. I then recompose and shoot my picture - nine times out of ten the sky will be properly exposed while the dark areas, although underexposed, are capable of recovery on post production as I shoot raw. A point to be aware of is that raw conversion software can recover far more detail from quite deep shadow than it can from highlights - with highlights if the exposure maxes out the detail is generally gone completely.
Inevitably even this trick can't cope with extreme variation - shooting toward the sun is a typical situation - in which case the choice either to take several exposures covering the whole range and blend (as I said previously) or if time does not allow set the exposure for the most important element of the image and live with over- or under-exposure elsewhere.
Remember there's no such thing as a perfect exposure - just the one that gets the shot...
PS
Are you shooting raw (CR2) or JPEG files? One advantage of raw is that you can mess about a lot more and recover far more apparently lost data - particularly from the shadows - than you can from JPEG.
One trick I use when shooting pictures with sky, particularly bright sky, is to set the camera to manual, point it at the sky and set the exposure to between +1 and +2 as displayed in the viewfinder. I then recompose and shoot my picture - nine times out of ten the sky will be properly exposed while the dark areas, although underexposed, are capable of recovery on post production as I shoot raw. A point to be aware of is that raw conversion software can recover far more detail from quite deep shadow than it can from highlights - with highlights if the exposure maxes out the detail is generally gone completely.
Inevitably even this trick can't cope with extreme variation - shooting toward the sun is a typical situation - in which case the choice either to take several exposures covering the whole range and blend (as I said previously) or if time does not allow set the exposure for the most important element of the image and live with over- or under-exposure elsewhere.
Remember there's no such thing as a perfect exposure - just the one that gets the shot...
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